Tucson/ Desert Trails-Final Edition

Flying the Friendly Skies

We left Arizona for a short visit with our son’s family during the Christmas season. The flight to and from Chicago was remarkably stress free.

Why we fly

As much as we enjoyed our Chicago visit it was great to get back to the desert.

A challenging section of the trail
After a couple of nights of rain there were puddles on the trails, a new experience for us
We missed those evening skies

While we’ve seen roadside memorials in our travels I don’t think we’ve seen as many or as well kept one’s as those along the roads of Tucson.

On Signal Mountain
At the intersection of Ajo Way and Camino Verde

We discovered an outdoor Mercado in the Menlo Park neighborhood of Tucson with an outstanding Japanese/ramen restaurant that operates out of a shipping container with outside seating. The food is excellent.

We returned to a favorite local brewery, Moto Sonora, it has a nice beer garden to go along with their great beer. On previous visits we admired a lovely BMW R75/5 on display in the bar area. It was only after our second visit that was a we realized the the motorcycle was on loan from former House of Representatives member Gabby Giffords.

We also made it to a great bread bakery, Barrio Bread. They are producing some of the best sourdough bread we’ve eaten.

Our stay at Desert Trails has been fun and we would definitely come back whenever we return to this area of Arizona. After seven weeks in one spot it’s time to get going. We have a two day stop scheduled at Buckskin Mountain SP on the west coast of Arizona along the Colorado River.

The campground
We had a nice spot near the river

The campground offers opportunities for hiking and boating. We don’t have a boat but we do hike.

Our front yard

We’ll be moving on to Southern California for a one month stay. Arizona has been great but California here we come.

Tucson/ Desert Trails Edition 2

Waiting for the sun to set
Right on time at 5:20 pm MT

Madeira Canyon is located an hour south of our current location. It is one of the many “sky islands” that can be found in southern Arizona. Sky islands are forested mountain ranges surrounded by “seas” of desert and grassland.

Hiking through the mountains of the sky islands adds a different twist on hiking in Arizona.

We find that wherever we want to go on this side of Tucson takes about 30 minutes. This includes restaurants, coffee roasters, breweries and movie theaters.

The Loft requires proof of vaccination and wearing a mask during movies
Good beer and a spacious beer garden
Good food to go along with excellent beer

While heading back to camp we decided to drive up Signal Mountain to check out the sprawl that is Tucson.

We continue to bike the the trails which wander through Tucson Mountain Park. Lately we’ve enjoyed riding at dusk when the shadows are long and the air is cool.

Shelly’s new friends

These are two of our neighbors we visit with nightly.

We continue to find unusual cacti as we wander the desert.

A double crested barrel cactus

We’ve posted a number of desert sunsets and neglected to post one of the spectacular desert sunrises.

We got up early and were treated to this gorgeous sunrise

Tucson/ Desert Trails Edition 1

When we travel in the Tincan we gravitate toward National, State or County parks. These parks offer great amenities as well as amazing scenery. The downside is you can only stay for a maximum of two weeks. Currently there are a lot more people on the road looking to camp making these parks harder to get into. This year we decided to try a private park for an extended stay.

Site W9 next to the TV Lounge on a rare cloudy day

We woke up to this on our first morning in the park.

The park’s location puts us close to Tucson galleries, restaurants and breweries. Every place we want to go is about a 25 minute drive. The real attraction however is the extensive system of mountain bike trails accessible from the park.

The beginning of another great Arizona sunset

The Saguaro National Park-West is a short drive from Desert Trails RV. The Park offers the Bajada Scenic Loop drive and numerous hiking trails as well as thousands of Saguaro. It takes 70 years before the Saguaro sprout branches or arms. They reach their full height of 40 to 50 feet after about 150 years.

The Signal Hill Trail is a short hike to a number of petroglyphs made by the Hohokam people between 450 and 1450 CE.

We always enjoy wandering and biking through the Sonoran Desert. There’s no telling what you might see.

Crime scene?
A rare crested Fishhook Barrel Cactus; the first we’ve seen
A rare crested Saguaro Cactus; the second one we’ve seen

Sunsets in the Sonoran Desert are a special event. We worry about boring people with endless photos of sunsets but sometimes we can’t help ourselves.

Sunset from Gates Pass

Tucson, the Catalina SP Edition

site 15- B Loop

Catalina State Park is a popular park located in the Tucson suburb of Oro Valley. The park is surrounded by development but you wouldn’t know it from inside the park.

We enjoy the park’s many hiking and biking trails. It’s a theme that connects all the locations we gravitate towards.

Another plus for the park is its proximity to the Pima County Bike Loop. The “Loop” consists of 131 miles of paved trail that circles the city. From the entrance of the park you have easy access to the Oro Valley Feeder to the loop. Walkers, bikers, skaters are all welcome.

One of the pleasures of travel is getting to meet people. During our stay at Catalina SP we met two couples who are full time RVers. It’s always fun to hangout and talk with fellow travelers. We spent a morning biking a section of the loop referred to as the “art loop” which featured a number of art installations.

Pat, Mary Ann, Joe, Susanne, Paul
The Batty Bicyclist installation

The park hosts a lot of visitors and the trails can get busy. We’ve visited a number of times and have found some trails that are underutilized. One we often return to is The Montrose Pools Trail.

The pools had a bit of water in them

Oracle State Park is about thirty minutes north of Catalina. It is a 4,000 acre wildlife refuge with 15 miles of hiking trails. The park is at a higher elevation than Catalina SP with a beautiful oak woodland chaparral and weathered granite boulders.

The park’s campsites have been full during our entire stay. In fact, we had to book two different sites for our two week stay.

Site 16- B Loop

The Romero Ruins Trail is a short popular hike. A few years ago we discovered that if you follow an unmarked trail off the Ruins trail it takes you near the base of the Pusch Ridge in the Catalina Mountains.

The trail passes through an area stricken by fire

Saguaro National Park consists of two districts on opposite sides of Tucson, west and east. We’ve visited Saguaro West but hadn’t checked out Saguaro East-Rincon Mountain District. The park offers hiking and biking trails as well as an eight mile scenic drive through the saguaro forest.

Drivers share the scenic loop with bicyclists

Hiking in the desert in the heat of the day can be brutal and takes some planning, but on Sunday we woke up to an overcast day. We wanted to hike the Sutherland Trail to Cargodera Canyon and took the opportunity given us by lower temperatures and cloudy skies.

Sunsets in the desert are the best and we’ve seen our share of them since we landed in Arizona. We couldn’t pick just one !

Verde Valley Visit/ week two

An aerial view of the Tincan and the neighborhood

Our last week at Dead Horse Ranch State Park was a full one. We connected we some friends who live in the village of Oak Creek and are building a new house in Jerome. Andy and Lori invited us to watch the sun set from Yavapai Point before dinner. With cocktails in hand we made our way to our view point.

That’s Lori leading the way
Courthouse Rock and Bell Rock

Tuzigoot National Monument is visible from many of the hiking /biking trails in Dead Horse Ranch State Park. It is the remnant of a Sinagua village built between AD. 1000 and 1400. What you see now is a reconstruction of the walls using the original stones.

The Pueblo sits atop a long ridge 120 feet above the Verde Valley.

Tuzigoot had 87 ground-floor rooms

After visiting the Pueblo we walked along the Verde River.

As mentioned before, getting out for a hike in the Sedona area can be problematic if you don’t get a very early start. Even then you won’t be hiking alone. One of the hikes we enjoy is a little used trail out of the Village of Oak Creek, the Transept Trail. It’s a seven mile out and back ramble through Red Rock Country.

Where’s Pat?

The trail ends at the Hiline Trail and offers some great views of Cathedral Rock.

We did not encounter any other hikers until we had almost completed our hike. This does not happen too often when hiking in Sedona.

One of two FP7 locomotives used by the Verde Canyon Railroad

While relaxing in camp we remarked to our neighbors how we liked their teardrop camper. A teardrop was our introduction to RVing. During that conversation they told us about a sightseeing train ride they had taken out of Clarkdale. We investigated further and decided to give it a go.

Our car
We had access to an open car during the ride

The train travels along the Verde River and passes Sycamore Canyon. We had wanted to hike the canyon but the trail was closed due to fire and mudslides. The train allowed us to see a bit of the canyon.

The train travels over a trestle and through a tunnel with wonderful views of the landscape.

After traveling through this iconic landscape Pat was feeling that southwest vibe

We first visited the historic mining town of Jerome in 1979. Back then Jerome was called a ghost town with lots of abandoned and falling down buildings. What a difference a few decades make. Jerome is now a thriving tourist destination with bars, restaurants, galleries and artist studios.

A view of the Verde Valley from uptown Jerome
Embracing the past to build a future

It isn’t always go, go, go. We do enjoy hanging out in the park and exploring the miles of hiking and mountain biking trails.

A last visit to Sedona red rock country as the sun sets on our Verde Valley visit.

Verde Valley Visit / week one

We’ve been in this part of Arizona a few times but this is the first time we’ve stayed at Dead Horse Ranch Sate Park.

Site 57, our home for the next two weeks

The park is situated between the Verde River and the Coconino National Forest. There are miles of hiking and mountain biking trails to be explored.

In the 1940’s a family from Minnesota came to the area to purchase a ranch. At one ranch they discovered a dead horse in the road. When it came time to pick a property the family chose the one with the dead horse. They bought the ranch and named it Dead Horse Ranch. Arizona State Parks acquired the property in 1973 with the condition that the state retain the name “Dead Horse Ranch “.

The Middle Lagoon near the Verde River
The Pueblo ruins at Tuzigoot as seen from the Tavasci March Trail

Dead Horse Ranch’s location makes it a perfect spot for exploring this part of Arizona. To the north is the spectacular “red rock country” of Sedona and Oak Creek. To the west are the historical mining towns of Clarkdale and Jerome. The village of Cottonwood lies just outside the park’s boundaries. In other words, lots to explore.

The town of Jerome as seen from the park

The mountain biking trails in this part of Arizona can be very challenging. We look for trails that are not overly technical and the Tavasci Marsh Trail fit the bill.

Enjoying the Marsh

Montezuma Castle National Monument is a short drive from the park. The 20 room dwelling was built between AD. 1100 and 1300 in a cliff recess 100 feet above the valley floor.

The people who built this structure were farmers we now call Sinagua~ancient relatives of the Hopi. They inhabited the area in the 1300s and grew corn, squash, beans and cotton. The darker brown Masonary in this photo was reconstructed in recent years but the lighter yellow masonry is original dating back 700 years.

The trail to Woods Canyon

Driving toward Sedona takes you into red rock country. We first visited this area in the late 1970’s. We came through on our first trip to the Grand Canyon. Over the years the number of visitors has exploded. If you want to hike the more popular trails you have to get moving early or you won’t find a place to park. We now search out the less traveled trails and avoid the crowds.

As dry as it is you can still see flowers

Staying put for two weeks allows you to relax and enjoy what is close at hand.

Our backyard
The small hill behind our trailer is an easy walk for sunrise or sunset viewing.

Short Stop Off the Mother Road

This was another stop we had planned pre-pandemic. We booked three nights at Homolovi State Park about two miles outside Winslow, Arizona.

The first night’s sunset was spectacular

The park was home to at least eight ancient Hopi communities who occupied the area from AD. 1250-1400 along the Little Colorado River. At their peak the area supported up to 2500 people. The area is part of the Sonoran Desert grassland. The people made their living through agriculture with cotton being an important crop.

It’s hard to imagine farming in this landscape

The park has the ruins of two Pueblos that visitors can explore.

The park is located on Hopi land and was established in 1986 in a effort to stop the vandalism that was destroying the ruins. Amateur and professional pot hunters seriously comprised these sites.

Thousands of potsherds litter the ground

In addition to exploring the ruins the park has trails that allow you to wander the desert.

The temperatures where mild and not an issue while hiking. However, the Ranger advised us to stay alert as rattlesnakes were on the move.

Snakes weren’t the only thing we had to watch out for

Twelve miles north of Homolovi is the Little Painted Desert county park.

Winslow is a short drive from the park. On our last day we drove in to see what it had to offer.

This town works the Route 66 connection
Yes we did!

We’ll be moving around Arizona for the remainder of the year. In the morning we’re off to explore Cottonwood, Jerome and Sedona.

Seven Days in Santa Fe

Santa Fe, New Mexico is one of our favorite places to visit in the Southwest. We stay in a private RV park south of the city. (Santa Fe Skies RV Park )It takes only 15 minutes to get to the plaza.

We got to stay in one one of our favorite sites
Our view

Santa Fe was established as a Spanish colony in 1610 and is the oldest state capital in USA. We keep coming back for the walk ability of the central plaza with its restaurants and art galleries. We’re also big fans of the Pueblo inspired architecture .

There is lots of outdoor art to enjoy as you wander the city

Santa Fe is a great restaurant town. With an indoor mask mandate in affect we visited two of our favorites.

Cafe Pasqual’s has great New Mexican cuisine
On the patio of Paper Dosa

Pat’s sister Carolyn and her husband Ed were visiting friends in Albuquerque. We drove down to meet them to tour the Albuquerque Botanical Gardens.

Carolyn and Pat
In the butterfly enclosure

Part of the appeal of staying at Santa Fe Skies is its proximity to routes that get you north or south of the city with ease. NM 14, known as the Turquoise Trail, takes you south to Cerrillos Hills State Park and Madrid. Interstate 25 takes you to Tent Rocks National Monument and Albuquerque. Route 599 bypasses the city to take you north to Los Alamos, Nambe Falls and Taos.

Cerrillos Hills State Park

We drove north of the city along the Rio Grande River to Taos. The County Line River Access gets you on the river. There are picnic tables, toilet facilities and a boat launch.

Also north of Santa Fe is Nambe Falls and Reservoir. We hiked the Falls Overlook Trail and then walked the creek to the bottom of the falls.

Nambe Falls
A walk in the woods leads you to the creek
Encountering water in the desert is a magical experience

Santa Fe Skies RV has a .75 mile path around the park. The owner collects vintage construction equipment which he displays along one section. He also creates metal sculptures which are installed along the way.

The path is a great place to watch the sun set.

Our week in Santa Fe ended far to quickly, I guess we’ll have to come back. While we’re sad to leave we’re looking forward to see what Arizona has in store for us.

We Made It

We’ve had to cancel two previous trips to Hot Springs Arkansas. This was the year to make it happen.

Hot Springs KOA

The healing waters of Hot Springs Arkansas have been drawing people to the area for centuries. The US Congress in 1832 created a 4 mile square reservation to protect the springs for public use. We arrived during Indigenous Day Weekend and the public was out in force.

The Quapaw built in 1922
Some of the amazing tile work found in the bath houses

Bath house row is located along Central Avenue and it was an unmasked mob scene when we arrived. We took refuge behind the bath houses along the Grand Promenade.

Soaking in the baths was not the only reason people came here. The extensive system of hiking trails was seen as a healthful addition to soaking in the hot spring water. Many of the trails are accessible from the Promenade.

One of the trails that lead to Summit Tower

After a hot and sweaty hike we made it to the top.

The observation deck offers 360 degree views of the Hot Springs Reserve.

Central Avenue

The hot springs here have no volcanic component to them. So how do they attain their average temperature of 143 degrees? The spring water begins as snow or rain that trickles into cracks in the brittle mountain rocks (novaculite and chert). As it travels through the earth’s crust it heats up through conduction. The trip takes about 4000 years. That’s not a typo.

Novaculite which was used for centuries by the indigenous residents to create arrowheads

The Park Service provides spigots in several locations around town for filling containers with spring water.

Our friends Tom and Margret told us about a Hot Springs barbecue institution, McClard’s.

We enjoyed a late lunch in the embrace of southern hospitality. A lovely experience. Thanks for suggesting we go there Tom and Margaret!!

We spent most of our time in the area exploring the hiking trails. Our hike to Goat Rock offered a nice view of the mountains around Hot Springs.

An old goat at Goat Rock
The view from Goat Rock (No Fall colors yet)

Our last hike in the area was to Balanced Rock, a short steep 2 mile hike.

Balanced Rock

We left Hot Springs and continued our journey West into Oklahoma. We spent two nights at Lake Eufaula State Park. The lake is the largest within the borders of the state.

The Tincan made a friend at Lake Eufaula

The park has over 15 miles of mountain bike trails but the rain kept the bikes in the truck.

The rain got us into the truck to do a bit of sightseeing. We found ourselves in Honey Springs and the childhood home of Oklahoma blues legend DC Minner.

No one was around but we enjoyed peeking in windows and reading the signage.

Finally we packed up the trailer and headed to Oklahoma City. We’ve driven through twice but had never stopped.

Our campsite came with a storm cellar

We came to see the memorial for the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building which was bombed April 19,1995.

One of the remaining walls
The Reflecting Pool
Field of Empty Chairs, one for every victim

This was a somber end to our Oklahoma visit. It was an affecting memorial that had us thinking about the lives lost, particularly the children.

Emerging From Limbo

We returned to Buffalo in April of 2020 to take stock of the pandemic and consider our travel options. Vaccines and cautious planning convinced us that our life on the road might be possible again.

The Tincan in storage

In May of 2021 we ventured to Portland OR for a long planned remodel of the kitchen area of the trailer. The idea was to get more storage and living space. We added a storable table, new counters and sinks, upgraded stove, cell booster and stereo. We love our upgrades, particularly the stowaway table.

Our friend Richard fabricated the wood tabletop.

The Southwest has always had a special appeal for us. On October 1st we left Buffalo to make our way south and west. After a weekend visit with our son’s family we headed down the Mississippi River to Hannibal, MO; Mark Twain’s childhood home.

The Mississippi River as seen from Lover’s Leap in Hannibal
Hannibal is all about Mark Twain
The Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse. Just 244 steps and you’re there.

We camped at a private RV park that was home to the cave made famous in Tom Sawyer.

From Hannibal we traveled south and west to Jefferson City, the capital of Missouri.

The interior was even grander.

Our visit was prompted by a desire to ride a section of the Katy Trail. This trail is one of the longest rails to trails in the country.

We started in Portland and rode to Rhineland
This section follows the Missouri River

We stayed in Binder City Park just west of Jefferson City. It’s a small campground near Binder Lake. There are 16 sites and is very quiet. There are several mountain bike trails in the park but we didn’t have time to try them.

After we leave Missouri we’ll be traveling to Arkansas for visit to Hot Springs. We’ve been trying to get there for the last two years. Stay tuned to see if we make it this time!